Saturday, April 21, 2007

Springtime in Ireland

So the other day was my first day out and about in Galway after traveling around Ireland and it was just one of those perfect days. The weather has finally been extremely nice here - trips to the beach, walks in the sunshine, etc.

But everything was finally in bloom, so not to sound really corny, but I couldn't stop smiling as I walked. I strolled to campus, and I've done this walk about 300 times in the last five months, but it was the first time all the trees along the walkway were in blossom. The bright green leaves, the light pink and white flowers just added a new dimension to my usually drab view. The grass was even greener.

Campus was bustling with students, and surprisingly the library was manageable. These Irish kids don't do work at home or print at home apparently. It's bizarre compared to America, where everything is done in your dorm, or the library is at least big enough to house everyone. I realized the other day that I only a month left and it's an extremely depressing thought. How did these four months go by so quickly? I love it here, and I don't want to go home. I miss my friends and family and WFUV, but I'm so comfortable here. Galway is adorable, the people are friendly and my life is very familiar here. I'm a brisk walk away from a gorgeous beach that's filled with families and adorable children with even more adorable accents. I'm two miles from a charming little town, I've got two grocery stores nearby. I guess I could do with a different laundry system. Currently I lug my load of dirty clothes about a half mile and they wash and dry it at the cleaners then deliver it. However, I don't feel my clothes get that clean or soft and my lights aren't so bright. I digress though.

Even today was cold and rainy and it was still nice and pleasant to be here. I like having my own apartment where I have no one to answer to. At home I'm not this neurotic about cleaning or being organized. If I go home I'll go back to being sloppy and lazy and my insomnia will come back. I think everyone in my life should move here. Problem solved!!

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Roma

The train ride to Rome was even more beautiful – we passed really cute towns and gorgeous countryside with lakes and mountains. When we finally got to Rome we found our hotel much more easily than the other places – it was right by Termini train station thankfully!! We immediately headed out and saw almost everything in half a day. Katie and I don’t fool around – we walk everywhere and see everything. Roma was a very interesting experience because by this point in the trip we were tired and the first two places were so charming and small, and Rome is enormous and crowded. Everywhere is Times Square. So while I did like it a lot and everyone should get there, I can’t say it was my favorite.

We went to Santa Mara Maggiore first – an unbelievably beautiful basilica in a residential/business area. Just – wow – like jaw-on-the-floor wow. We then went to the piazza della Republica – which is a lot like Lincoln Center in NYC. It has an ancient basilica with this more modern structure highlighting it. We walked to the Spanish steps which were covered in people and purple flowers and then Trevi Fountain. A man somehow got to the middle and dove into the fountain and was then arrested – it was quite the show. We went into many churches which were really cool because from the outside they look like nothing – just a building, but inside they are trimmed in gold and deep blues or pinks or greens and angels painted all over the ceilings.

We saw St. Ignacious Loyola’s church (go Jesuits!) – which I actually really really liked. The outside and in are beautiful. We saw the Pantheon which is so cool because you can really see how old it is. Next up piazza Navona which is a long oval center filled with the cutest restaurants and cafes and the buildings are all these bright colors. People were painting and playing music or doing comedy routines. We strolled to the Monument Victor Emmanuel which is so impressive and HUGE – I loved it! I think we headed back at this point – I’m honestly not sure if we even ate we were so tired. But we met a really cool guy from Chile in our hostel and girls from South Africa and Spain.

The next day we got up really early and went to Vatican City – Sunday. We got mixed in with this crowd of really pushy old people - and not very Christian regardless of their crosses and banners and pictures of Il Papa. It was chaos and we somehow ended up in a very special private ticket-only section in front of St. Peter’s…but we had no ticket and on one bothered us. Next thing we know the Pope comes out and says Mass about 200ft or 300ft from us!!! Parts were in English, but it was great to listen to nonetheless – lovely music. I mean I saw mass by the POPE. I could never go again and I’m pretty sure I’d still be covered. We then strolled over the museums which were closed, and then saw the Castel Sant’Angelo – an enormous egotistical mausoleum for some ancient person I forget. We walked along the river for a bit and then got some gelato and headed for Ancient Rome. We saw the Sacred Area, the Campidoglio and then walked through the Roman Forum which was incredible. As you go through suddenly the Colosseum pops up and it’s massive. It was really impressive to see and walk around. We hung out around there for a bit then headed back and pretty much crashed. We got dinner at this ridiculous place with rude waiters who microwaved our food. Bizarre!! That night as we were getting ready for bed this guy walks in the room and we know him from Fordham!! It was so random – of all the cities and hostels and rooms, and this kid we hung out with in Galway and Paris is in our hostel. So that was fun.

Next day we got up at 6:45 and went to the Vatican Museums. We only had to wait for them to open which was a relief and we were pretty far up in line. The museums are filled with insanely good art and sculptures – you really need a full day there. But we had a goal: the Sisteen Chapel. It’s not what you expect – you’re walking along and go up and down stairs and suddenly you’re in this small little chapel covered in wall to wall paintings. It’s beyond worth seeing – the paintings are so humbling and just knowing one man painted that ceiling and those walls – quite an experience. We left there and saw some ancient Roman sculptures, and then went into St. Peter’s. I really struggle to describe how impressive this building is – it’s enormous and the alter is so big you don’t even believe it looking at it. We saw La Pieta and just walked through it with our eyes as wide as they can go. I’m still not sure how to put the whole experience into words – I guess surreal. You’re in the heart of Catholicism and it should be so sacred, but it’s almost too much – too much gold and decorations and designs and tourists and people taking cheesy photos in the confessional booths. It was breathtakingly beautiful, but something didn’t feel right. I expect basilica’s around the world to be ostentatious, but I guess I wanted this to be humble and sacred, and not such a tourist trap.

Next we walked to Piazza del Popolo and at this point you’re really north in the city and it’s so pretty, way less people, and just cute. We got great pizza and the piazza itself is really cool. The center has a huge fountain you can sit in and around and two enormous churches sit in the entrance. This day was honestly kind of miserable because of the heat and our exhausted we were, but we still had things to see and do. We walked all the way to the bottom of the city and stuck our hand in the Mouth of Truth – mine’s still here, no worries! And then saw the Circo Massimo, where all the chariot races took place. We walked by the Colosseo again, and crashed back at the hostel. At night we walked around saw the Piazza della Republica lit up with the fountain – just like LCenter in summer.

Rome is huge. Just huge. The people aren’t very friendly and barely anyone speaks English which was quite a shock and very frustrating. It’s a capital city for Pete’s sake!! However the gelato was unbelievable – this one place had a chocolate that might as well’ve been brownie batter. It’s way too crowded, but I really liked how it’s a city with all these ancient ruins or gorgeous churches that just pop up as you turn a corner. Everything is ornate and the churches are really stunning from the inside – even just itty bitty chiesas make you go “Wow.”
I was a big hit with Italian men had many men profess their love for me – one man dressed as an ancient Roman soldier put his fake sword to my neck and said “I love you.” The city felt like a twilight zone at times.
Also – I had multiple people tell me I don’t look American! I’ve gotten that before from NYC cabbies…I don’t know what makes me not look American but they didn’t believe I wasn’t English, Irish, or French. They thought Katie was American, but not me!!

Overall, Italia is bella!!! The people are so darling and I picked up more Italian in one week than I have of Irish in 5 months. Ciao bella, Prego, Gratzie, and many more phrases will be stuck in my head. The whole place just tests your senses – one minute it’s cool windy – the next smoldering heat. The colors are enchanting and I’m not kidding you could smell lilacs, gardenias, and wonderful food smells everywhere. I had many forms of chocolate gelato, as well as coconut, pineapple, orange, peach, mint, nutella, tiramisu and stractiatella. Even though I feel like I ate the country’s entire store of gelato, most of those flavors were combined on one cone!! Also – I’m aware I probably spelled most of the Italian words wrong, so those of you who are Italian, my apologies but I’m too lazy to double check!! I loved Italy, but I’m glad to be back – Gaillimh is still my favorite, followed by Paris then Venice!! Ciao!!!

Firenze

If Venice is a storybook or fairytale, Florence is a movie. I mean walking along the river looking at the mountains just looks straight out of a movie – Much Ado About Nothing had to have been filmed nearby. I was really surprised by Florence because it wasn’t quite what I expected, but I loved it nonetheless. The train ride from Venice to Florence was great – the Tuscan country side was beautiful. Our little train compartment was filled with 6 people – all really nice Italian people.

We got there around 1pm and it was soooo HOT!! I expected a cute little town but it’s a bustling city with lots and lots of people! We took a bus – well many city buses to our hotel and got there FINALLY after lugging our bags through busy, hot hot streets and it was really nice and in a great location on Via Cavour on the Piazza della Liberte. We took our map and headed toward old Firenze and saw the Il Duomo – a massive white cathedral decorated in green and pink panels, with the bapistry? right across. We then just strolled from piazza to piazza and passed beautiful buildings and gardens and statues. One piazza was filled with gardenias so I was in heaven.

We walked along the river and just couldn’t get over the view of the mountains. We walked over the Ponte Vecchio and drooled over all the diamonds in the windows. We then went to Piazza della Signoria where the famous Uffizi museum is – again the line was crazy so we passed. But the piazza holds a copy of David and many other statues – like Perseus and Rape of Sabine. All the outdoor cafes were so cute and the apartments were lined with red flowers in the flowerboxes. After some more gelato we met up with Katie’s friend who took us to Santa Croce where Michelangelo and many other famous folks are buried as well other neat piazzas and palazzos. We got sparkling red wine and a delicious dinner – tortellini pruscuitto for me, followed by chocolate gelato. We strolled back to the Ponte Vecchio and listened to a man play the guitar for a while, and went back to Piazza Signoria with all the statues and fountains lit up.

The next day we went to the Fortezza da Basso which should have a pretty lake, but we couldn’t find it so we left. We tried to buy train tickets but apparently the trains were on strike, so instead we check out the basilica across the street – Santa Maria Novella. We saw the Accademia museum from the outside (it houses the real David) and passed the Palazzo de Medici. We strolled through a great outdoor market and chatted with the vendors – just so nice and not the fake kind. One guy warned us about Roma, “In Firenze we are all nice people and like nice people. In Roma – mean. Mean people, you won’t like it.” We met up with Sarah – our new friend again and scammed our way into the Boboli Gardens using her student pass.

The gardens were my favorite – huge and beautiful filled with ponds and statues of Roman gods. They love Neptune in Firenze! We walked around for a few hours and saw the most amazing view of the city and the Tuscan countryside. It’s dotted with olive trees and purple and pink flowers. Old buildings line the tops of the hills and mountains and it’s just absolutely breathtaking. Katie and I were pretty much dead at this point so we walked back to our hotel and then went to Sarah’s for some home cookin. We had pasta covered in garlic and olive oil, bread with olive spread and more olive oil. I feel like I ate and entire olive grove – so I was in heaven. The next day we left for Roma, and while Florence was much more urban than I expected, I still found it lovely and people were pretty great.

Viva Italia

Italia – Ciao Bella!!

I just got back from my week-long trip to Italy and it was aaamaazzinngg. We did a lot - Venezia, Firenze, and Roma - so I’ll break this up into 3 posts. In Italy overall we found out they have strange laws on construction – they can only do it certain years and times of the year – and we went during prime construction. So every famous basilica and building had tons of scaffolding, but it was still unbelievable to see.

Our first stop was Venice, and it was my absolute favorite city out the three. My Italian tour book described it as “disturbingly beautiful,” which at first I thought was an odd choice of words. But once there I realized what it meant – the humidity makes everything hazy so it’s almost dreamlike. It was like a storybook - small and charming. When we got there it was about 9:00 at night and we had no idea where to go – all we knew was that we needed to take a water taxi to the island of Lido where our hotel was. So not to freak out mom I’ll just say it was a nightmare, but after a long night we got to our hotel safely by 12:30amish. It was really nice and right on the water.

We woke up really early and got on our water taxi and headed towards the main parts of Venice – first stop Piazza San Marco. The water trip was amazing – all these little islands surrounded us filled with palm trees and buildings you’d see in an old Spanish movie. The Piazza is gorgeous and we couldn’t go into the Basilica because of the line, but it was beautiful to look at. We then put the map away and just started meandering through the little streets. Shops filled with beautiful Murano glass and jewelry were lined up one after the other, and windows were filled with Venetian masks and mannequins in stunning masquerade costumes. The streets were like little alleys and as you went along you’d come across a bridge over a waterway and beneath you would be a gondola trimmed in gold and velvet. The gondoliers would yell after me, “You! Blondy girl! Ride?” Since we wound through the streets I’m not exactly sure of all the famous sites we saw, but we popped into beautiful churches as we went – one was enormous on the inside and the pillars were covered in red velvet –I think it was San Stefano. It was just so much fun – you’d be in these narrow shady streets and then out of nowhere you’d be in this huge open piazza filled with music and people. The buildings were all reds and oragnes, and some were blues with the plaster peeling away to reveal red brick beneath. Lilacs were flowing over every wall so the city smelled of salt water and lilacs. All over are water fountains with water just flowing out into a pool, and people drank from them, but I wasn’t daring around.

Our first gelato was as amazing as they tell you – I got a vanilla with nutella mixed in for a euro. Then we got pizza for lunch – and Ireland doesn’t have good pizza so this was an unbelievable treat. It tasted like pizza on Arthur Ave, but better! A man was outside Chiesa San Rocco singing opera songs in a beautiful tenor voice as we ate. We then went to the beginning of the Grand Canal, hopped on a water taxi and took a tour for an hour. The water taxis are like subways, but on water with a great view of all the buildings and bridges. We then walked through this great market by the Ponte di Rialto which is a beautiful bridge that connects two huge sections of Venice. We then stopped for dinner at a cute outdoor restaurant and I got lasagna and a glass of the house red – delicious!!! But most restaurants charge you to sit and for the service, so we didn’t eat out much. We were pretty beat so we headed back to our island, and walked around Lido down to the beach and I’m not kidding, it was so humid and hazy you could barely see 100 ft. down the beach, but it didn’t feel gross – it just looked so mysterious. We then went to the other side of the island and sat on the canal at sunset and couldn’t believe where we were.

The next day was basically the same, but we went to the island of Murano where all the famous glass comes from. It was small and adorable and then we went back to Venice and strolled through the streets again. We had lucked out the day before by walking around early because in the afternoon those tiny streets are packed with people so you can barely move. We then went back to Lido and hung out on the beach for the afternoon. The water was so clear and it was so hot – something I haven’t experienced in Ireland and forgot about!!

I wish I could describe every minute but it’s just impossible. The people in Venice were so friendly and nice and spoke excellent English and were willing to help us with any question or directions. When they found out we were Americans they didn’t get that look of dollar signs in their eyes like everywhere else we’ve been – instead they just seemed intrigued and wanted to chat. Sunset each night was gorgeous – it’s really a city for lovers and Katie and I just watched all these couples with extreme envy. The water taxis and gondolas and speed boats are so much fun to watch, and the food was amazing. People stand around the piazzas dressed in masquerade costumes and masks posing for pictures and money – it’s a riot! The city is a breeze to walk – it takes maybe a half hour to walk from top to bottom and probably an hour side to side – but there is so much to stop and see!! I really loved it, and will without a doubt make it back there when I have money and someone to ride a gondola with!!

Easter

Last week was Easter – Sunday April 2, 2007 – in Gaillimh, Ireland. It was so nice, and by nice I mean lovely, wonderful and comfortable. For the first time I felt pangs of homesickness since I’ve been in Ireland because of all the small but extraordinary things my mom always does on Easter. She outdoes herself every holiday, but particularly on Easter because of the effort she puts into thinking of the perfect present. I mean she still pretends to be Santa for my 35 year old sister – that’s how amazing she is, but on Easter it’s just a basket, and it’s perfect. Around 8am she sneaks into my room and puts a basket on the floor next to my bed; I know it’s her because I wake up and look at her and we always exchange a smile when she’s caught in the act.
“Happy Easter babydolly,” is all she says, and I fall back asleep with my Easter morning complete. That’s all I need – that could be it – that could be all that happens on Easter and it would be complete. That moment where we look at each other, catch eyes and share a knowing smile. I love her. I love her because she’s the most considerate person I have ever and will ever know. I try to emulate her consideration and ability to make everyone feel unbelievably special, but I always come up short.
This Easter though I’m across the Atlantic Ocean. When baseball season opened I missed home because of what baseball is – America, green grass being cut, T-shirts, hot dogs, and an escape from the mundane. But I love Easter – my mom makes about 5 baskets just to put around the house, she buys everyone bunny stuffed animals, candy they especially like, costume jewelry and a simple everyday-type shirt.
So this year I played Mom. I made my friend Katie an Easter basket – sort of. I bought her a pink purse I could only hope she’d like or use, and since Ireland doesn’t have the fake grass I stuffed it with this Tri-color feather boa I had for St. Paddy’s. Then I placed a chocolate bunny on top, and placed a dark-chocolate Kit-Kat, Cadbury mini-eggs, Lindt eggs, and a Butler’s chocolate egg in the bag around the bunny. It was the best I could do. I made a similar one for my friend Chris – sans the purse. I did for the sense of normalcy it would bring for all of us. I needed to do this for them as much as for myself so we wouldn’t miss home too much. The look on their faces made it all worthwhile – I know them both well and I can’t say I’ve seen such a happy look on either of their faces.
Chris, Katie and I went to 10am Mass which was nice, but lacked music so it was anti-climatic. We all anticipated the annual “Jesus Christ is risen today...” but were denied. After Mass we headed back to our apartment and I made chocolate chip pancakes and had Chris cut up a fresh pineapple. My roommate Sarah supplied some Irish bacon, then we all sat together at the spots where I puts place cards down ( I made them) for each person. It was actually really nice.
Afterwards the three of us headed down to the Salthill beach and just goofed around for a bit. We played soccer with a potato the whole walk down and then dropped it into the ocean – an Easter feast for the fish.
Once we returned home I began dinner. I cooked a ham, mashed potatoes, a veggie mix, and warmed up mac n’cheese. Chris is a vegetarian and Katie is the pickiest eater on the planet, but I found a way to please everyone. It was just nice – and nice is a really good thing. Chris and I finished 3 bottles of wine and a Kopperburg – maybe that’s what made everything so pleasant! Or that fact that I finally found jelly beans to put out with my centerpiece (jellybeans, an Easter card from my rents, and my Easter palm/pine branch).
Then after sitting and watching TV for a bit I put the cookies I had baked the day before in the oven and reheated them for about 2 minutes and put them out for the three of us to enjoy. My roommate had left for her own feast hours before, so no worries – she wasn’t excluded.
A few minutes later my family called from Whitestone, NY. They were all almost there – minus my brother, sister-in-law and nephew. I spoke to almost everyone which really made my night, but it was a 45-minute call!! But I needed it. Easter is usually low-key, but it was quite the party from the sounds of it. Of course the year I leave! I guess it’s just because we’ve all finally grown up. My cousin James is the youngest at around 10 and his brother is 15…but the rest of us are 20 and older. My sisters are married to great men and my other cousins are men themselves now. It’s now food, music, laughter and drink, instead of tears and yelling like when we were kids. Listening to their joy didn’t so much make me sad as it did just happy that they were happy. There was no fighting at this point in the day and it was so comforting to hear their joy.
So that was my Easter – my makeshift family and I loved it. I missed my real family, but it was nice. It wasn’t with the “closest thing to family” it was with family as makeshift as it is. I wouldn’t have traded it for anything. Yes I’d have loved to be home with my other family, but Galway has finally started to feel like home - I’m in love with this place and I’m in love with Chris and Katie as family.
I do miss home-home family, but I feel like Europe is where I belong, for right now at least.